Single Phase Traffic Light Control Wiring Diagram Connection

 Single Phase Traffic Light Control Wiring Diagram Connection

I always wanted an old traffic signal and finally got one recently. However, it was very simply wired so that all the lights were fixed on. What fun is that? I also wanted to try out an Arduino controller and thought this would be a nice simple project to integrate it into.

This Instructable will show you how to wire up an old traffic signal with an Arduino controller to function like a real traffic light. I used a pretty simple program and controls. Given the power of the Arduino controller, there are a lot of ways you can customize this.

Obviously you will need an old traffic signal. I got mine on Craigslist for $40. It is one of the newer plastic cased ones, but it looks fine from a distance. I would kind of like an old metal one, but I'll have to upgrade later I guess.

The brains of this thing are going to be an Arduino Uno connected to a relay module.

(Note: This relay is pretty loud. I can hear it click from across the room. If anyone has suggestions for something similar that is not as noisy, let me know.)

You will need a power supply (transformer, wall wart, AC/DC adapter) for the Arduino. I used a 12V 750mA wall wart that I had from some other piece of electronics that had died. Most 7V to 12V transformers should work. You can pick one up at Goodwill for about $2. Stay away from Radio Shack, they wanted $20-$30 for wall warts! I am sure someone who knows more about the Arduinos can chime in as to what kind of amperage range you should stay in

Tools:

You will need a USB B cable to connect the Arduino to your computer to program it. If you have a USB printer you should already have one of these.

Wire cutters

Wire strippers

mini flat head screwdriver for relay connections

Other tools you will need will again depend on the initial state of your traffic signal. I used the following:

Cordless drill (for drilling holes in the case)

Soldering Iron (for wire connections and heat shrink tubing)

Dremel tool with milling bit (cut off some of the plastic in the case to make mounting the new components easier)

Eye and hearing protection if you are using power tools.

Above is a photo of the Arduino Uno and the relay module with the wiring between the two attached. I only had male to male jumpers, so I used a Molex connector and my mad soldering skills to make a connector (second photo). It is probably easier to use male to female jumpers to connect everything or find a 6 pin jumper to use. The Arduino has all female sockets and the relay module has all male pins.

Download and start the Arduino programming software if you have not already. Connect the Arduino to your computer with a USB B cable.

Copy and paste the code below and upload it to the Arduino. One the code uploads it should start running immediately on the Arduino. You should see the indicator lights going on and off on the relay unit and hear the relay switches tripping.

You can make this more simple or complicated if you want. I have it set up to cycle through 25 normal cycles, switch to blinking red for a few minutes, do 25 more normal cycles, switch to blinking yellow for a few minutes, and then repeat.

I converted a wall wart type transformer to a built in power supply by soldering some pig-tails to the wall plug blades and insulating them with heat shrink tubing. I then hard-wired the transformer to the power cord coming into the traffic signal. You can always run this wire separate and plug it directly into an outlet if you do not want to covert the transformer like I did.

MAKE SURE THE WALL PLUG IS NOT PLUGGED IN WHEN YOU ARE WORKING ON THE INTERNAL WIRING. If you don't know to do this, you probably should not be attempting this project. Anyway, consider yourself warned. I take no responsibility for accidental electrocutions.

The case for my traffic signal is made of plastic, but there are some metal parts on it that I thought should be grounded. If yours has a metal case, you should probably ground the case directly.

I used normal wire nuts for the all of the line voltage wiring connections. I tinned the ends of the stranded wires with solder before putting on the wire nuts.

 Single Phase Traffic Light Control Wiring Diagram Connection

I always wanted an old traffic signal and finally got one recently. However, it was very simply wired so that all the lights were fixed on. What fun is that? I also wanted to try out an Arduino controller and thought this would be a nice simple project to integrate it into.

This Instructable will show you how to wire up an old traffic signal with an Arduino controller to function like a real traffic light. I used a pretty simple program and controls. Given the power of the Arduino controller, there are a lot of ways you can customize this.

Obviously you will need an old traffic signal. I got mine on Craigslist for $40. It is one of the newer plastic cased ones, but it looks fine from a distance. I would kind of like an old metal one, but I'll have to upgrade later I guess.

The brains of this thing are going to be an Arduino Uno connected to a relay module.

(Note: This relay is pretty loud. I can hear it click from across the room. If anyone has suggestions for something similar that is not as noisy, let me know.)

You will need a power supply (transformer, wall wart, AC/DC adapter) for the Arduino. I used a 12V 750mA wall wart that I had from some other piece of electronics that had died. Most 7V to 12V transformers should work. You can pick one up at Goodwill for about $2. Stay away from Radio Shack, they wanted $20-$30 for wall warts! I am sure someone who knows more about the Arduinos can chime in as to what kind of amperage range you should stay in

Tools:

You will need a USB B cable to connect the Arduino to your computer to program it. If you have a USB printer you should already have one of these.

Wire cutters

Wire strippers

mini flat head screwdriver for relay connections

Other tools you will need will again depend on the initial state of your traffic signal. I used the following:

Cordless drill (for drilling holes in the case)

Soldering Iron (for wire connections and heat shrink tubing)

Dremel tool with milling bit (cut off some of the plastic in the case to make mounting the new components easier)

Eye and hearing protection if you are using power tools.

Above is a photo of the Arduino Uno and the relay module with the wiring between the two attached. I only had male to male jumpers, so I used a Molex connector and my mad soldering skills to make a connector (second photo). It is probably easier to use male to female jumpers to connect everything or find a 6 pin jumper to use. The Arduino has all female sockets and the relay module has all male pins.

Download and start the Arduino programming software if you have not already. Connect the Arduino to your computer with a USB B cable.

Copy and paste the code below and upload it to the Arduino. One the code uploads it should start running immediately on the Arduino. You should see the indicator lights going on and off on the relay unit and hear the relay switches tripping.

You can make this more simple or complicated if you want. I have it set up to cycle through 25 normal cycles, switch to blinking red for a few minutes, do 25 more normal cycles, switch to blinking yellow for a few minutes, and then repeat.

I converted a wall wart type transformer to a built in power supply by soldering some pig-tails to the wall plug blades and insulating them with heat shrink tubing. I then hard-wired the transformer to the power cord coming into the traffic signal. You can always run this wire separate and plug it directly into an outlet if you do not want to covert the transformer like I did.

MAKE SURE THE WALL PLUG IS NOT PLUGGED IN WHEN YOU ARE WORKING ON THE INTERNAL WIRING. If you don't know to do this, you probably should not be attempting this project. Anyway, consider yourself warned. I take no responsibility for accidental electrocutions.

The case for my traffic signal is made of plastic, but there are some metal parts on it that I thought should be grounded. If yours has a metal case, you should probably ground the case directly.

I used normal wire nuts for the all of the line voltage wiring connections. I tinned the ends of the stranded wires with solder before putting on the wire nuts.