How to make 1.5V to 16V Voltage Booster
This is a Voltage Booster, Joule Thief, Boost Converter, Booster Circuit, StepUp Converter or anything you can call it in Telugu. This circuit is capable of converting 1.5V to 16V with very little current input 22mA and can output a current of 8mA with 3V 1/4W led as load(Measured with Multimeter).This circuit is efficient and easy to build.
If you find this video helpful then please consider supporting our channel by Subscribing, Liking and Commenting your open iOS or Any doubts reguarding the video.
This is the Components List:
1.BC547 transistor
2.Torroidal Ferrite Core
3.Enamelled Copper Wire (Small enough to fit your Ferrite Core)
4.1k ohm resistor
5.Perfboard or All purpose PCB board
How Does A Boost Converter Work?
Basic Principal:
A boost converter works in two stages, ON and OFF. In the ON stage the Semi-conductive Switch is conducting and current builds up in the inductor producing an
electromagnetic field, this field stores energy. In the OFF stage the Semi-conductive Switch does not conduct and the electromagnetic field collapses. When the field collapses the energy stored
in it can not escape through the Semi-conductive Switch so it goes through the diode and into the load/Capacitor at a much higher voltage. This happens several times
thousand times a second via the pulses from the NE555 Timer Chip and the result is being able to charge a high voltage capacitor from a low voltage source.
Below is some aid for those of you who don't know electronics well.
R-Resistor
VR-Variable Resistor (also called a Potentiometer)
B-Battery
V-Voltage Source
C-Capacitor
D-Diode
L-Inductor
U/IC-Integrated Circuit
Q-Transistor/IGBT
M-MOSFET
GND- Ground (Negative terminal of Battery for Portable Applications)
This boost converter is for those with moderate electronics experience.
If you have the resources I recommend making the printed circuit board version of this device because it is simpler, smaller, and less likely to fail. However feel free to make the protoboard version if space is not an issue.
This circuit takes up a minimum of 1.75" x 1.5" x 1" and can operate from 8.4V to 31.2V Input and output maximum of 500V safely (for the circuit). I recommend at least a 12V battery input.
DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE
This device can put out lethal voltages and the capacitors you charge can store lethal charges for hours, Please wear Electrician Gloves and Safety Glasses while operating and take all safety precautions
Specifications:
Project Cost:
- $17 + Shipping Mouser
- $5 + Shipping Coilcraft PCV-2-394-05L (Follow the link and type in the part number to buy)
- Average Total Cost with Shipping
-- $35 --
Dimensions: 1.75" x 1.5" x 1"
Input Voltage: 8.4V to 31.2V
Output Voltage Range: 100V to 500V
Output Power:
- 12V Input 36W maximum +-20% Charged 290J Capacitor Bank in 8s
- 24V Input 92W maximum +-20% Charged 1468J Capacitor Bank in 16s
Output Power Measured with 1-2 12V 34Ah Lead Acid Batteries for a Virtually Constant Voltage Source
The Major limitation of how much power can be drawn from your batteries is the Battery Packs ESR
---For Best results used high current rated batteries or Batteries meant for Power RC Devices---NiCd are the best (with the exception of Li-poly)
For The Following Batteries an Estimated Maximum Power can be drawn
ESR = Equivalent Series Resistance = Internal Resistance
NiCD/NiMH
12V AAA ESR = 350-400mOhm 28-30W
12V AA ESR = 150-300mOhm 31-34W
24V AAA ESR = 700-800mOhm 60-80W
24V AA ESR = 300-600mOhm 75-85W
Warning-Drawing too much current from your batteries may reduce there capacity, life, and cause your battery to overheat, Monitor Your Batteries temperature.
Note: The Protoboard holes do not accommodate the MOSFET and Diode pins, drilling a 1/32 hole solves this, although you may have to solder the leads to adjacent pads.
If you have the resources I strongly suggest you make this Printed circuit Board Boost converter instead of the protoboard one. Making a custom PCB will be more compact and have a much better appearance.
This circuit only takes up 1 5/8" x 1 1/4" x 1" and can operate from 8.4V to 31.2V and output maximum of 500V safely.
I strongly recommend using at least a 12V Battery if your goal is maximum power.
This Version's Size can also be reduced to 1 5/8" x 1 1/4" x 3/8" if the Inductor is placed away from your circuit, as it is in most coilguns for convince. Shown in Picture Below.
DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE
This device can put out lethal voltages and the capacitors you charge can store lethal charges for hours, Wear Electrician Gloves and Safety Glasses while operating and take all safety precautions
The First Step in PCB construction is to design your PCB Board using DipTrace (click the link and download the DipTrace 2 freeware)
You can also use the PCB Layout Shown in the Pictures Below.
The Next Step is to get the Design onto the PCB, you can do this two ways: Using a Laser Printer (Fast, Easy, and if you can find one to ow I recommend it) and Hand Tracing (VERY TIME CONSUMING)
If you happen to have a Laser Printer simply get some catalog, phone book, or newspaper paper. This is the type of cheap paper that is very light and most importantly falls apart in water, test a piece of paper in water to make sure. You'll need to tape the paper to a regular printer feed sheet (Shown In Picture Below) You only need to tape it to the top of the sheet, make sure it is as flat as possible to the printer sheet so that when it is Feed through the printer it does not crumble.
Download the File Below (Boost Converter, SMT2 )(You will need to Download the DipTrace 2 freeware). Open the File and click Print Preview Under FILE. Make sure the Objects Selections are as shown in the Picture and the Mirror Box is checked. Click Print, in the Print Window select Properties. In the Properties window select the graphics tab and In the Darkness Square select DARK.
Feed the Paper with the cheap paper taped on it into the printer and Click Print.
Your Paper should look like in the 5th Picture. Use this to size your PCB and cut your Copper Clad with a Dremel or table saw, cut slowly.
Turn on your iron on and put it on it's highest setting (usually Cotton), Wait for it to heat up...
While waiting thoroughly clean your copper clad piece with hot water and soap, thoroughly dry your piece. When your iron is finally heated place your copper clad on an ironing board with the copper side face up. Cut the LASER printed Layout so that it is the size of the copper clad piece. Place the piece of paper toner side down and place the flat iron down on the paper and copper clad. Push down with moderate force and wait a few minutes. The copper clad and paper should now be stuck together. Place the piece, it will be HOT, into a container of warm soapy water and wait five minutes.
After waiting take the Piece and run it under warm water and gently rub the top of the paper until all that is left is the toner. Touch up the Layout with your permanent marker.
How to make 1.5V to 16V Voltage Booster
This is a Voltage Booster, Joule Thief, Boost Converter, Booster Circuit, StepUp Converter or anything you can call it in Telugu. This circuit is capable of converting 1.5V to 16V with very little current input 22mA and can output a current of 8mA with 3V 1/4W led as load(Measured with Multimeter).This circuit is efficient and easy to build.
If you find this video helpful then please consider supporting our channel by Subscribing, Liking and Commenting your open iOS or Any doubts reguarding the video.
This is the Components List:
1.BC547 transistor
2.Torroidal Ferrite Core
3.Enamelled Copper Wire (Small enough to fit your Ferrite Core)
4.1k ohm resistor
5.Perfboard or All purpose PCB board
How Does A Boost Converter Work?
Basic Principal:
A boost converter works in two stages, ON and OFF. In the ON stage the Semi-conductive Switch is conducting and current builds up in the inductor producing an
electromagnetic field, this field stores energy. In the OFF stage the Semi-conductive Switch does not conduct and the electromagnetic field collapses. When the field collapses the energy stored
in it can not escape through the Semi-conductive Switch so it goes through the diode and into the load/Capacitor at a much higher voltage. This happens several times
thousand times a second via the pulses from the NE555 Timer Chip and the result is being able to charge a high voltage capacitor from a low voltage source.
Below is some aid for those of you who don't know electronics well.
R-Resistor
VR-Variable Resistor (also called a Potentiometer)
B-Battery
V-Voltage Source
C-Capacitor
D-Diode
L-Inductor
U/IC-Integrated Circuit
Q-Transistor/IGBT
M-MOSFET
GND- Ground (Negative terminal of Battery for Portable Applications)
This boost converter is for those with moderate electronics experience.
If you have the resources I recommend making the printed circuit board version of this device because it is simpler, smaller, and less likely to fail. However feel free to make the protoboard version if space is not an issue.
This circuit takes up a minimum of 1.75" x 1.5" x 1" and can operate from 8.4V to 31.2V Input and output maximum of 500V safely (for the circuit). I recommend at least a 12V battery input.
DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE
This device can put out lethal voltages and the capacitors you charge can store lethal charges for hours, Please wear Electrician Gloves and Safety Glasses while operating and take all safety precautions
Specifications:
Project Cost:
- $17 + Shipping Mouser
- $5 + Shipping Coilcraft PCV-2-394-05L (Follow the link and type in the part number to buy)
- Average Total Cost with Shipping
-- $35 --
Dimensions: 1.75" x 1.5" x 1"
Input Voltage: 8.4V to 31.2V
Output Voltage Range: 100V to 500V
Output Power:
- 12V Input 36W maximum +-20% Charged 290J Capacitor Bank in 8s
- 24V Input 92W maximum +-20% Charged 1468J Capacitor Bank in 16s
Output Power Measured with 1-2 12V 34Ah Lead Acid Batteries for a Virtually Constant Voltage Source
The Major limitation of how much power can be drawn from your batteries is the Battery Packs ESR
---For Best results used high current rated batteries or Batteries meant for Power RC Devices---NiCd are the best (with the exception of Li-poly)
For The Following Batteries an Estimated Maximum Power can be drawn
ESR = Equivalent Series Resistance = Internal Resistance
NiCD/NiMH
12V AAA ESR = 350-400mOhm 28-30W
12V AA ESR = 150-300mOhm 31-34W
24V AAA ESR = 700-800mOhm 60-80W
24V AA ESR = 300-600mOhm 75-85W
Warning-Drawing too much current from your batteries may reduce there capacity, life, and cause your battery to overheat, Monitor Your Batteries temperature.
Note: The Protoboard holes do not accommodate the MOSFET and Diode pins, drilling a 1/32 hole solves this, although you may have to solder the leads to adjacent pads.
If you have the resources I strongly suggest you make this Printed circuit Board Boost converter instead of the protoboard one. Making a custom PCB will be more compact and have a much better appearance.
This circuit only takes up 1 5/8" x 1 1/4" x 1" and can operate from 8.4V to 31.2V and output maximum of 500V safely.
I strongly recommend using at least a 12V Battery if your goal is maximum power.
This Version's Size can also be reduced to 1 5/8" x 1 1/4" x 3/8" if the Inductor is placed away from your circuit, as it is in most coilguns for convince. Shown in Picture Below.
DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE
This device can put out lethal voltages and the capacitors you charge can store lethal charges for hours, Wear Electrician Gloves and Safety Glasses while operating and take all safety precautions
The First Step in PCB construction is to design your PCB Board using DipTrace (click the link and download the DipTrace 2 freeware)
You can also use the PCB Layout Shown in the Pictures Below.
The Next Step is to get the Design onto the PCB, you can do this two ways: Using a Laser Printer (Fast, Easy, and if you can find one to ow I recommend it) and Hand Tracing (VERY TIME CONSUMING)
If you happen to have a Laser Printer simply get some catalog, phone book, or newspaper paper. This is the type of cheap paper that is very light and most importantly falls apart in water, test a piece of paper in water to make sure. You'll need to tape the paper to a regular printer feed sheet (Shown In Picture Below) You only need to tape it to the top of the sheet, make sure it is as flat as possible to the printer sheet so that when it is Feed through the printer it does not crumble.
Download the File Below (Boost Converter, SMT2 )(You will need to Download the DipTrace 2 freeware). Open the File and click Print Preview Under FILE. Make sure the Objects Selections are as shown in the Picture and the Mirror Box is checked. Click Print, in the Print Window select Properties. In the Properties window select the graphics tab and In the Darkness Square select DARK.
Feed the Paper with the cheap paper taped on it into the printer and Click Print.
Your Paper should look like in the 5th Picture. Use this to size your PCB and cut your Copper Clad with a Dremel or table saw, cut slowly.
Turn on your iron on and put it on it's highest setting (usually Cotton), Wait for it to heat up...
While waiting thoroughly clean your copper clad piece with hot water and soap, thoroughly dry your piece. When your iron is finally heated place your copper clad on an ironing board with the copper side face up. Cut the LASER printed Layout so that it is the size of the copper clad piece. Place the piece of paper toner side down and place the flat iron down on the paper and copper clad. Push down with moderate force and wait a few minutes. The copper clad and paper should now be stuck together. Place the piece, it will be HOT, into a container of warm soapy water and wait five minutes.
After waiting take the Piece and run it under warm water and gently rub the top of the paper until all that is left is the toner. Touch up the Layout with your permanent marker.
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