Water in a summer cottage is necessary not only for the owners to comply with sanitary and hygienic standards. It is necessary for watering plants, caring for the territory and pets, refreshing and bathing in the hot summer season. Agree that all the required volume is difficult to lift from the source manually with buckets.
However, there is a way to alleviate the difficult fate of summer residents - this is a homemade water pump. Even if there is no money to buy pumping equipment, you can become the proud owner of a useful technical device. Literally, a single thought power is sometimes enough to build it.
This pump is probably the simplest and cheapest, since the raw materials are literally poured out, that is, does not cost anything at all.
To implement the ideas for its assembly, the following materials are needed:
plastic bottle with cork;
plastic bottle without cap;
a piece of plastic pipe of the appropriate diameter;
Drain pipe.
To start, you need to make a flapper valve.
Remove the seal from the lid of the plastic bottle. We cut in a circle so that the diameter of the seal becomes smaller than the neck of the bottle. In this case, you need to leave a narrow sector intact, at about 15-20 degrees.
We have collected and systematized for you valuable information on how to make practically free homemade products. The models presented for review have been tested in practice and deservedly deserved recognition from the owners. A detailed description of the manufacturing technology is supplemented with diagrams, photos and videos.
In the center of the plastic bottle cap we drill a hole of about 8 mm. Insert the seal and screw on the trimmed neck.
We insert a plastic pipe into the finished valve. In the second plastic bottle, cut off the top. It should be something like a closing funnel. We fix it on a plastic pipe.
At the other end of the plastic pipe we put a drain pipe. The simplest homemade pump for pumping water is ready.
With a sharp movement of the hand up and down, we push the liquid up through the plastic pipe to the spout. Then the fluid will flow by gravity.
Design #2 - Hand Pump with Direct Spout
A very simple device for pumping water from a barrel, good to me. Advantages of this design: speed of assembly, cheap cost.
Details needed:
PVC pipe d.50mm - 1 pc.;
PVC coupling 50 mm - 1 pc;
PPR pipe d.24mm - 1 pc.;
branch PPR d.24 - 1 pc;
PVC cap d.50mm - 2 pieces;
piece of rubber d.50mm, 3-4mm thick - 1pc;
Check valve 15 mm - 1 piece;
empty silicone bottle 330 ml - 1 pc;
screw clamp - 1 pc;
nut or screw rivet - 1 pc;
coupling nut d.15 - 1 pc.
The assembly of the entire structure begins with the manufacture of a check valve.
Check valve construction. We prepare the non-return valve from the plug Ø 50mm. We drill a few holes around the perimeter of the plug Ø 5-6mm. In the center, drill a hole of the appropriate diameter for a pair of nut-screws or rivets.
Inside the cap we impose a rubber disk Ø 50mm. The disk should not rub against the walls of the plug, but should cover all the drilled holes. In the center we tighten with a nut or a rivet, the screw will not work. If you have any issues with materials or workmanship, you can replace it with a pre-made check valve.
What is a prefabricated check valve used for the operation of the pumping station, described in detail in our recommended article.
Preparation of the pump sleeve. The length of the sleeve should be proportional to the depth of the well or container with water. We cut the PVC sewer pipe Ø 50 mm to the desired length, starting from the narrow end. We insert the just made valve into the bell of the pipe. For reliability, secure with screws on both sides.
For the second end, we prepare a plug with a pre-drilled hole Ø 25mm. This hole in the cap is made according to the diameter of the PPR pipe Ø 24. High precision is not required, the cap serves as a support for sliding.
Piston assembly procedure. We cut the nose from an empty silicone bottle. Then it is necessary to heat the cylinder and insert it into the PVC sleeve so that the diameter of the cylinder exactly matches the diameter of the sleeve. We put a can of silicone on the valve on the back of the arrow (the arrow on the check valve indicates the direction of movement).
nt of water).
We cut off the excess cylinder. Fix with a union nut d.15.
The pump rod device. The length of the rod should be 50-60cm longer than the length of the sleeve, one end of the rod should be warmed up and a check valve inserted. The arrow on the check valve should point inside the stem. Until the pipe has finally cooled, we tighten it with a hose clamp.
Final pump assembly. We insert the rod into the sleeve, at the top through the coupling we fix the stopper (sliding bracket). To top it all off, at the end of the stem pipe we attach the 24mm PPR elbow. It remains to connect the hose and you can pump water.
The branch serves as a support for the hand. For convenience, you can take a tee and drown one side of it.
The previous design has one, but one significant drawback. The beak moves with the stem. This design is not much more complicated, but much more convenient.
The sleeve needs to be improved. Add to the construction a 50mm diameter PVC tee with a 35 degree elbow. The tee should be inserted into the top of the sleeve. In the rod, near the piston, several holes of large diameter are drilled, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to violate the rigidity of the whole structure.
Design #4 - Piston Well Pump
This pump design is suitable for wells not exceeding 8 meters. The principle of operation is based on the vacuum created by the piston inside the cylinder. Home-made can be an excellent alternative to factory-made pumping equipment, will help solve the problems of water production for the maintenance of the cottage.
Materials required:
metal pipe d.100mm., length 1m.;
rubber
piston;
two valves.
The performance of the pump directly depends on the tightness of the entire structure.
A detailed description of the process of making a piston pump for use in a summer cottage can be found in one of the popular articles our site.
Step #1: Assembly of the assembly unit
For the manufacture of the pump sleeve, attention must be paid to the inner surface, it must be even and smooth. A liner from a truck engine might be a good option.
From below, a steel bottom should be welded to the liner along the diameter of the wellhead. In the center of the bottom, a flap valve or factory valve is installed.
A cover is made for the top of the sleeve, although this part is more aesthetic, you can do without it. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the hole for the piston rod is in the form of a slot.
For the piston you need to take 2 metal discs. Between them there was not very thick rubber of 1 cm, a diameter somewhat larger than the wheels. Then we tighten the discs with bolts.
As a result, the rubber disc is pressed and a sandwich of metal and rubber should be obtained. The goal is to create a rubber rim around the edge of the piston, which will form the necessary piston sleeve seal.
It remains to install the valve and solder the ear for the rod.
Step #3. Making rubber flappers
The petal valve consists of a thin rubber disc. The disc size should be larger than the inlet openings. A hole is drilled in the center of the rubber. Through this hole and the pressure plate, the rubber disc is mounted on top of the inlets.
When sucking, the edges of the rubber rise and the water begins to flow. During the reverse stroke, pressure is created: the rubber reliably blocks the inlet openings.
Step #4: Final Assembly and Installation
It is advisable to cut the threads on the wellhead and on the bottom of the pump sleeve. The thread will make it easier to remove the pump for maintenance and make the installation airtight.
Install the top cover and attach the handle to the rod. For comfortable work, the end of the handle can be wrapped with tape or electric cord, twisting turns.
The restriction of the depth of the well is due to the theoretical impossibility of creating a vacuum of more than 1 atmosphere. If the well is deeper, you will need to modify the depth pump.
There are two ways to solve this problem:
Make the stem from a lighter material, such as aluminum pipe.
Make a rod from a chain.
An explanation is needed for the second option. In this case, the rod is not hard. The bottom of the sleeve is connected to the bottom of the piston by a return spring.
Construction #6 - American or spiral type
The spiral pump uses the energy of the river. For work, the minimum requirements must be observed: depth - at least 30 cm, flow velocity - at least 1.5 m / s.
Option 1
Materials required:
flexible hose d.50mm;
several clamps;
fence - PVC pipe d. 150mm;
wheel
pipe reducer.
The main difficulty of such a pump is a tube gearbox. This can be found in Decommissioned Sewer Machines or obtain Factory Equipment.
Flexible hose with clamps attached to spiral wheel. At one end is joined a 150mm PVC pipe fence. The second end of the hose is placed on the hose reducer.
Water is absorbed by a water intake and moves in a spiral, creating the necessary pressure in the system. The lifting height depends on the flow velocity and the immersion depth of the inlet.
Option 2
Materials required:
flexible hose d.12mm (5);
plastic barrel d.50cm, length 90cm (7);
polystyrene (4);
wheel (3);
sleeve coupling (2);
At the bottom of the barrel, cut the intake hole. Inside the barrel, lay the hose tightly in a spiral and connect it to the sleeve coupling.
To give buoyancy inside the barrel, it is necessary to glue foam floats. Finally, screw the wheel.
For this design, the drain pipe should be 25 mm. of diameter.
Design #7 - Wave Power Pump
As the name suggests, these pumps use gy of the waves. Of course, the lakes are not such big waves, but the pump works around the clock and can pump up to 20 cubic meters per day.
Option 1
Materials required:
float;
corrugated pipe;
two valves;
mast mounting.
The float is a pipe, a log, is selected based on the stiffness of the corrugated pipe, empirically.
Two valves operating in the same direction are mounted in a corrugated pipe.
When the float goes down, the corrugated pipe stretches, therefore, water is sucked in. As the float rises, the ripple contracts and pushes the water up. Therefore, the float should be quite heavy and bulky.
The entire structure is rigidly fixed to the mast.
Option 2
This design differs from the first option in that the corrugated pipe is replaced by a brake chamber. This diaphragm-based design is very often used in simple do-it-yourself water pumps. Such a pump is quite versatile and can receive energy from wind, water, steam, sun.
The brake chamber should be disassembled and only two valve openings should remain.
The manufacture of suitable valves is a separate task.
Materials required:
copper or brass pipe;
balls with a slightly larger diameter - 2 pieces;
spring;
copper strip or bar;
rubber.
For the intake valve, we cut the tube and drill it so the ball fits snugly on the tube. You have to make sure that the ball does not pass through the water. To prevent the ball from falling, solder a wire or strip from above.
The design of the exhaust valve differs from the inlet by the presence of a spring. The spring must be installed between the ball and the copper strip.
From the rubber we cut the diaphragm to the size of the brake chamber. To drive the diaphragm, you need to drill a hole in the center and stretch the stud. We insert the valve from below the brake chamber. For sealing, you can use epoxy glue.
It is better to find balls for non-metallic valves, so that they will not be subject to corrosion.
Option 3
Based on the design of the previous two options, you can think of creating a more advanced model.
For this pump, four pegs (1) must be driven into the bottom of the pond. Then float a newspaper. It is necessary to make cuts in the log, so that when swinging the waves it does not turn.
For longevity, it is recommended to treat the log with a hot composition of a mixture of kerosene and drying oil. You must do this carefully, handle it in a water bath: there should be no open flame.
The log limiters (3) and (4) are nailed in such a way that the log does not damage the pump rod (5) during maximum movement.
Design # 8 - a device from a washing machine
Often parts or even entire assemblies of old objects remain on the farm. A centrifugal pump can be removed from an already unnecessary washing machine. Such a pump is perfect for pumping water from a depth of 2 meters.
Materials required:
washing machine centrifugal pump;
flap valve of the washing machine or house;
cork, bottle cap;
a pipe;
preferably an isolation transformer.
If a ready-made valve from a washing machine is used, it must be changed. A hole must be closed, for example with a bottle stopper.
We connect the petal valve to the pipe and lower it into the pit or well. The second end of the hose is connected to the pump. In order for the system to start working, it is necessary to fill the pipe with the valve and the pump itself with water. It remains to connect the transformer and the pump is ready for operation.
Design # 9 - compressor water pump
If you have already drilled well, there is an air compressor, do not rush to get a water pump. It will be successfully replaced by a simple structure air transport device.
Materials required:
casting pipe d.20-30mm.;
air hose 10-20 mm.;
The principle of the pump is very simple. It is necessary to drill a hole in the spout pipe, they should be located closer to the bottom. The hole should be 2 to 2.5 times larger in diameter than the air pipe. It remains to insert the air hose and apply the air pressure.
Water in a summer cottage is necessary not only for the owners to comply with sanitary and hygienic standards. It is necessary for watering plants, caring for the territory and pets, refreshing and bathing in the hot summer season. Agree that all the required volume is difficult to lift from the source manually with buckets.
However, there is a way to alleviate the difficult fate of summer residents - this is a homemade water pump. Even if there is no money to buy pumping equipment, you can become the proud owner of a useful technical device. Literally, a single thought power is sometimes enough to build it.
This pump is probably the simplest and cheapest, since the raw materials are literally poured out, that is, does not cost anything at all.
To implement the ideas for its assembly, the following materials are needed:
plastic bottle with cork;
plastic bottle without cap;
a piece of plastic pipe of the appropriate diameter;
Drain pipe.
To start, you need to make a flapper valve.
Remove the seal from the lid of the plastic bottle. We cut in a circle so that the diameter of the seal becomes smaller than the neck of the bottle. In this case, you need to leave a narrow sector intact, at about 15-20 degrees.
We have collected and systematized for you valuable information on how to make practically free homemade products. The models presented for review have been tested in practice and deservedly deserved recognition from the owners. A detailed description of the manufacturing technology is supplemented with diagrams, photos and videos.
In the center of the plastic bottle cap we drill a hole of about 8 mm. Insert the seal and screw on the trimmed neck.
We insert a plastic pipe into the finished valve. In the second plastic bottle, cut off the top. It should be something like a closing funnel. We fix it on a plastic pipe.
At the other end of the plastic pipe we put a drain pipe. The simplest homemade pump for pumping water is ready.
With a sharp movement of the hand up and down, we push the liquid up through the plastic pipe to the spout. Then the fluid will flow by gravity.
Design #2 - Hand Pump with Direct Spout
A very simple device for pumping water from a barrel, good to me. Advantages of this design: speed of assembly, cheap cost.
Details needed:
PVC pipe d.50mm - 1 pc.;
PVC coupling 50 mm - 1 pc;
PPR pipe d.24mm - 1 pc.;
branch PPR d.24 - 1 pc;
PVC cap d.50mm - 2 pieces;
piece of rubber d.50mm, 3-4mm thick - 1pc;
Check valve 15 mm - 1 piece;
empty silicone bottle 330 ml - 1 pc;
screw clamp - 1 pc;
nut or screw rivet - 1 pc;
coupling nut d.15 - 1 pc.
The assembly of the entire structure begins with the manufacture of a check valve.
Check valve construction. We prepare the non-return valve from the plug Ø 50mm. We drill a few holes around the perimeter of the plug Ø 5-6mm. In the center, drill a hole of the appropriate diameter for a pair of nut-screws or rivets.
Inside the cap we impose a rubber disk Ø 50mm. The disk should not rub against the walls of the plug, but should cover all the drilled holes. In the center we tighten with a nut or a rivet, the screw will not work. If you have any issues with materials or workmanship, you can replace it with a pre-made check valve.
What is a prefabricated check valve used for the operation of the pumping station, described in detail in our recommended article.
Preparation of the pump sleeve. The length of the sleeve should be proportional to the depth of the well or container with water. We cut the PVC sewer pipe Ø 50 mm to the desired length, starting from the narrow end. We insert the just made valve into the bell of the pipe. For reliability, secure with screws on both sides.
For the second end, we prepare a plug with a pre-drilled hole Ø 25mm. This hole in the cap is made according to the diameter of the PPR pipe Ø 24. High precision is not required, the cap serves as a support for sliding.
Piston assembly procedure. We cut the nose from an empty silicone bottle. Then it is necessary to heat the cylinder and insert it into the PVC sleeve so that the diameter of the cylinder exactly matches the diameter of the sleeve. We put a can of silicone on the valve on the back of the arrow (the arrow on the check valve indicates the direction of movement).
nt of water).
We cut off the excess cylinder. Fix with a union nut d.15.
The pump rod device. The length of the rod should be 50-60cm longer than the length of the sleeve, one end of the rod should be warmed up and a check valve inserted. The arrow on the check valve should point inside the stem. Until the pipe has finally cooled, we tighten it with a hose clamp.
Final pump assembly. We insert the rod into the sleeve, at the top through the coupling we fix the stopper (sliding bracket). To top it all off, at the end of the stem pipe we attach the 24mm PPR elbow. It remains to connect the hose and you can pump water.
The branch serves as a support for the hand. For convenience, you can take a tee and drown one side of it.
The previous design has one, but one significant drawback. The beak moves with the stem. This design is not much more complicated, but much more convenient.
The sleeve needs to be improved. Add to the construction a 50mm diameter PVC tee with a 35 degree elbow. The tee should be inserted into the top of the sleeve. In the rod, near the piston, several holes of large diameter are drilled, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to violate the rigidity of the whole structure.
Design #4 - Piston Well Pump
This pump design is suitable for wells not exceeding 8 meters. The principle of operation is based on the vacuum created by the piston inside the cylinder. Home-made can be an excellent alternative to factory-made pumping equipment, will help solve the problems of water production for the maintenance of the cottage.
Materials required:
metal pipe d.100mm., length 1m.;
rubber
piston;
two valves.
The performance of the pump directly depends on the tightness of the entire structure.
A detailed description of the process of making a piston pump for use in a summer cottage can be found in one of the popular articles our site.
Step #1: Assembly of the assembly unit
For the manufacture of the pump sleeve, attention must be paid to the inner surface, it must be even and smooth. A liner from a truck engine might be a good option.
From below, a steel bottom should be welded to the liner along the diameter of the wellhead. In the center of the bottom, a flap valve or factory valve is installed.
A cover is made for the top of the sleeve, although this part is more aesthetic, you can do without it. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the hole for the piston rod is in the form of a slot.
For the piston you need to take 2 metal discs. Between them there was not very thick rubber of 1 cm, a diameter somewhat larger than the wheels. Then we tighten the discs with bolts.
As a result, the rubber disc is pressed and a sandwich of metal and rubber should be obtained. The goal is to create a rubber rim around the edge of the piston, which will form the necessary piston sleeve seal.
It remains to install the valve and solder the ear for the rod.
Step #3. Making rubber flappers
The petal valve consists of a thin rubber disc. The disc size should be larger than the inlet openings. A hole is drilled in the center of the rubber. Through this hole and the pressure plate, the rubber disc is mounted on top of the inlets.
When sucking, the edges of the rubber rise and the water begins to flow. During the reverse stroke, pressure is created: the rubber reliably blocks the inlet openings.
Step #4: Final Assembly and Installation
It is advisable to cut the threads on the wellhead and on the bottom of the pump sleeve. The thread will make it easier to remove the pump for maintenance and make the installation airtight.
Install the top cover and attach the handle to the rod. For comfortable work, the end of the handle can be wrapped with tape or electric cord, twisting turns.
The restriction of the depth of the well is due to the theoretical impossibility of creating a vacuum of more than 1 atmosphere. If the well is deeper, you will need to modify the depth pump.
There are two ways to solve this problem:
Make the stem from a lighter material, such as aluminum pipe.
Make a rod from a chain.
An explanation is needed for the second option. In this case, the rod is not hard. The bottom of the sleeve is connected to the bottom of the piston by a return spring.
Construction #6 - American or spiral type
The spiral pump uses the energy of the river. For work, the minimum requirements must be observed: depth - at least 30 cm, flow velocity - at least 1.5 m / s.
Option 1
Materials required:
flexible hose d.50mm;
several clamps;
fence - PVC pipe d. 150mm;
wheel
pipe reducer.
The main difficulty of such a pump is a tube gearbox. This can be found in Decommissioned Sewer Machines or obtain Factory Equipment.
Flexible hose with clamps attached to spiral wheel. At one end is joined a 150mm PVC pipe fence. The second end of the hose is placed on the hose reducer.
Water is absorbed by a water intake and moves in a spiral, creating the necessary pressure in the system. The lifting height depends on the flow velocity and the immersion depth of the inlet.
Option 2
Materials required:
flexible hose d.12mm (5);
plastic barrel d.50cm, length 90cm (7);
polystyrene (4);
wheel (3);
sleeve coupling (2);
At the bottom of the barrel, cut the intake hole. Inside the barrel, lay the hose tightly in a spiral and connect it to the sleeve coupling.
To give buoyancy inside the barrel, it is necessary to glue foam floats. Finally, screw the wheel.
For this design, the drain pipe should be 25 mm. of diameter.
Design #7 - Wave Power Pump
As the name suggests, these pumps use gy of the waves. Of course, the lakes are not such big waves, but the pump works around the clock and can pump up to 20 cubic meters per day.
Option 1
Materials required:
float;
corrugated pipe;
two valves;
mast mounting.
The float is a pipe, a log, is selected based on the stiffness of the corrugated pipe, empirically.
Two valves operating in the same direction are mounted in a corrugated pipe.
When the float goes down, the corrugated pipe stretches, therefore, water is sucked in. As the float rises, the ripple contracts and pushes the water up. Therefore, the float should be quite heavy and bulky.
The entire structure is rigidly fixed to the mast.
Option 2
This design differs from the first option in that the corrugated pipe is replaced by a brake chamber. This diaphragm-based design is very often used in simple do-it-yourself water pumps. Such a pump is quite versatile and can receive energy from wind, water, steam, sun.
The brake chamber should be disassembled and only two valve openings should remain.
The manufacture of suitable valves is a separate task.
Materials required:
copper or brass pipe;
balls with a slightly larger diameter - 2 pieces;
spring;
copper strip or bar;
rubber.
For the intake valve, we cut the tube and drill it so the ball fits snugly on the tube. You have to make sure that the ball does not pass through the water. To prevent the ball from falling, solder a wire or strip from above.
The design of the exhaust valve differs from the inlet by the presence of a spring. The spring must be installed between the ball and the copper strip.
From the rubber we cut the diaphragm to the size of the brake chamber. To drive the diaphragm, you need to drill a hole in the center and stretch the stud. We insert the valve from below the brake chamber. For sealing, you can use epoxy glue.
It is better to find balls for non-metallic valves, so that they will not be subject to corrosion.
Option 3
Based on the design of the previous two options, you can think of creating a more advanced model.
For this pump, four pegs (1) must be driven into the bottom of the pond. Then float a newspaper. It is necessary to make cuts in the log, so that when swinging the waves it does not turn.
For longevity, it is recommended to treat the log with a hot composition of a mixture of kerosene and drying oil. You must do this carefully, handle it in a water bath: there should be no open flame.
The log limiters (3) and (4) are nailed in such a way that the log does not damage the pump rod (5) during maximum movement.
Design # 8 - a device from a washing machine
Often parts or even entire assemblies of old objects remain on the farm. A centrifugal pump can be removed from an already unnecessary washing machine. Such a pump is perfect for pumping water from a depth of 2 meters.
Materials required:
washing machine centrifugal pump;
flap valve of the washing machine or house;
cork, bottle cap;
a pipe;
preferably an isolation transformer.
If a ready-made valve from a washing machine is used, it must be changed. A hole must be closed, for example with a bottle stopper.
We connect the petal valve to the pipe and lower it into the pit or well. The second end of the hose is connected to the pump. In order for the system to start working, it is necessary to fill the pipe with the valve and the pump itself with water. It remains to connect the transformer and the pump is ready for operation.
Design # 9 - compressor water pump
If you have already drilled well, there is an air compressor, do not rush to get a water pump. It will be successfully replaced by a simple structure air transport device.
Materials required:
casting pipe d.20-30mm.;
air hose 10-20 mm.;
The principle of the pump is very simple. It is necessary to drill a hole in the spout pipe, they should be located closer to the bottom. The hole should be 2 to 2.5 times larger in diameter than the air pipe. It remains to insert the air hose and apply the air pressure.
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